Paint Project

First up - I have NEVER painted a car before this. Ok I have spray canned small panel damage, but never a whole car.

Why paint the zed? simple - there are maybe 16 shades of maroon, and a lot of the clear had simply given up and tried to fall off. The car had been under car covers for several years but they actually caused more damage as wind blew, cover moved, rubbed paint...

And the new bumper and spoiler were different colours. And removal of parts looking dodgy with primer patches. Yay.

So, with a 5000$ 'mates rates' being a bit outside of my budget had to come up with a alternative.

What about rubber paint (the most common brand being Plasti-Dip)? Can be long lasting and robust, since that is commonly used on tool handles. No real problem applying at home even in the open. Several colours available. Matt finish can hide imperfections. Can be removed should a colour change be wanted. All good so far.

So, now for a supplier. A company called Cool Kiwis provides a starter pack for people wanting to paint their own cars, as well as applying for customers if desired. So after a couple of emails and phone calls the bullet was bitten, an order placed and plans made.

As always there were complications. I had expected the car would be finished and ready for me to paint before the trip back south. But no I ended up doing and finishing some things myself, so painted down south.

After lots of reading and watching as many 'this is how I do it' videos, I got to and did. I am not going to re-hash what others have said, but will explain some tips and tricks used to overcome my own shortcomings.

• Use cheap masking tape to hold paper etc together. Get good quality tape for actual paint edges. Cheap stuff will leave residue, and removing residue at edges risks removing the paint at those same edges. You have been warned.
• Overspray can be removed using wax and grease remover (I used Septone brand). It comes off glass, but you will have to clean, wait for it to dry fully, clean again, wait for it to settle, then clean with water before it is acceptable. Expect smudgy smeary stuff if you don't do this.
• Applying rubber paint needs a spray gun with a slightly larger size paint nozzle than would be used for 2-pack or enamel. Due to the lower viscosity (it is not as runny) the sprayer has to work harder so a more powerful motor/greater air flow is required. Those folk with a compressor and paint spray gun will likely make these adjustments for themselves. The one provided in the kit is an electric model and is set up for the task.
• The air guides (the little flappy bits) can be adjusted so they sit flat, about 20 degrees, and about 45 degrees. Flat gives an almost round spray pattern, while 45 degrees creates and almost 'figure 8' pattern. I found the middle position best.
• The first layer is recommended to be a light mist with the paint pickup setting at a low level. This also results in the air guides getting a buildup of paint that will need to be cleaned out regularly. I ended up having a litre of wax remover/degreaser (I had Septone brand, but I guess others will work just as well) in a tub then, when refilling the paint container, put the front spray part to soak and clean. No more buildup in the spray nozzle.
• The Z32 has lots of complex curves making an even finish really hard. I ended up painting the bonnet and boot twice. Expect to do some areas again.
• Matt finish hides many imperfections but better preparation makes for a better finish.
• Rubber paint likes to go on thick to get good coverage. The risk is going too thick and getting paint runs drips or curtains (depending on who you talk to). Don't panic. If it is really bad you can peel off the rubber paint you have applied and start over. If it is not too bad you can paint over and allow it to smooth with multiple applications.
• I had a couple of little dimples that were filled between layers with a brush applying a few drops at a time until it was smooth.
• I was somewhat brave and attempted a chameleon effect paint over the black (first ever paint job remember). In this case mauve, red, and yellow/orange pearls are mixed with clear which is then sprayed over the black until the desired colour shift is gained. Experts will get that in a single coat, I took a couple to get there. Initially I used filters to ensure only fine particles were applied, but this resulted in not enough colour with the clear. For the final 2 layers I just used the product without filtering. This resulted in 'spots' of red which some would say looks a bit odd but gives nice colour definition. Remember that if you don't like it or it comes up wrong then it can be chaged easily enough :)
• Painting horizontal surfaces is a total mare. I found that the gun would have a 'curtain of air' around the paint being applied which would then create 'stripes' in the finish. These were not evident when painting vertical surfaces (huh?). This is really plain to see in some of the pics in the gallery, I painted over using the fancy clear and the stripes were even more visible! My solution was to repaint, but this time did one solid layer (for coverage) then multiple 'misting' layers from different directions which allowed material to build up pretty much evenly. The finish is more textured, but at least it is even.
• This is really evident in an experiment. When I did the bonnet the second time, I did the first chameleon pass and it came up pretty well, except for one slight line. I hit that one line, but the 'curtain of air' pushed the pearls in the paint aside. Have a look at the pics, you will see the resultant stripe! Lesson learned.
• Small imperfections can be smoothed by waiting until the layer is touch dry, carefully patting the area down with a little Septone, then when that has dried off spraying over the next coat. Amazing what that solves! I accidentally left a fingerprint in the middle of a panel when the paint was still wet (lost my balance...) and following this procedure it was completely gone in 2 coats.
• Always mix the paint material every time you go to fill the paint hopper. Every time.
• If you use filters when filling your paint hopper, and you should, you will use a filter every time you fill. That is because the paint will dry quickly on the mesh and block it making it completely useless in just a few minutes. Be prepared.
• You will probably end up with a textured finish that may even be a little 'patchy' in terms of glossiness of finish. All is not lost. If you are confident that coverage is complete and pretty much even then you can use this old-timers trick to improve the finish. Fill your hopper with wax and grease remover, turn the delivery dial to its lowest setting, and lightly mist the whole car. Pay attention not to make drops or drips. You are not going for full coverage, just a light misting. Do it again, but this time go at a different angle. For example, when I painted the bonnet I used a 'front to back' pattern. When misting the cleaner I went diagonally starting at the back drivers side finishing passenger front, then the next misting was from the passenger back to the drivers front. The result is seen in just a few minutes with a satin almost gloss finish. And it is even across the paint job :) You may find other products work just as well, just remember to be really careful not to make drops on the finish. Consider yourself warned!
• Ensure that everyting is properly cleaned when you are done for the day. I pulled the whole delivery components off and left them to soak in solvent overnight before checking and reassembling ready for next time.

Tags: car paint painting spray electric rubber plasti-dip chameleon black Nissan 300ZX Z32